Mounting And Semellage
Note: from here the steps differ depending on the type of installation.Here, I wish to make a general presentation of production of a pair of shoes. I go into the details in a future article! Just keep in mind that a quality shoe will be always sewn (Blake, Goodyear, Norwegian, Bolognese, etc.) while others are simply glued.
So, we have a top informed shoe and insole. Not practical to walk!
It is Internetdict that teaches us how to make a pair of shoes will take shape…
In this operation we’ll so put the stem Assembly on the form (but if! you know the one that was made by the Modeller!) in order to give volume to the shoe.
First of all the reinforcements between the leather and the lining is needed. These elements are pasted with, in general, a glue made of oatmeal flour diluted alcohol white vinegar (called glue of Vienna):
- the foothills that keeps the heel in place
- the hard end, forward, to avoid deformation
The stem will then be mounted on the form and set below (at the level of the sole) for the first mounting (leather for shoes of quality) or crust leather for others.
Note: If you place your hand inside the shoe you will feel the difference: the crust leather to a rough appearance.
We get a shoe in volume (finally!). As the case this is done by hand or machine. The leather will be attached to the first Assembly with so-called spikes ‘head man ‘.
On the image above you can see that there is a difference in thickness between the first of Mount and the rod.
Good manufacturers of shoes is empty is filled with natural cork who owns, naturally absorbent and insulating properties that will better keep your feet dry and warm!
This allows in addition to having a flat surface to display the sole.
During this operation the leather is subject to significant constraints: I strongly shot in order to fit perfectly.
It’s also when mounting asked a shank (leather or wood or plastic for some… I think that begin to see the different strings!) to support the Arch of the foot.
Some manufacturers (such as our workshop of Cholet) leave so the shoe mounted on form to rest: it’s the exposure time.
This allows the constraints imposed on the material (we still force the leather, flat surface, take a volume!) spread for a better distribution and avoid distortions when the form will be removed.
Note: it is understandable, for the sake of profitability, some manufacturers skip this step – which can last up to 48 / 72 h-in order to produce faster.
So we have our shank mounted on shape and fixed on the first Assembly. You’re going to have to put a sole!
In the case of a sole leather it is cut with a carry piece wrought iron in a leather to crawl vegetable tanning (from 12 to 18 months according to manufacturers) in order to obtain a more dense leather which don’t fripera is when it is folded.
I give you a thousand: some manufacturers use insoles in tanned leather for 6 months or less!
Initially the sole will be sealed for the first mounting.
Using a milling machine remove the surplus of leather to the sole.
In some cases the sole is also “drink” in order, then a nice finish to the wax on the sole and heel.
Some manufacturers leave the apparent the sewing thread. Jacques & Demeter we push the concern for detail and quality further by offering an editing under burning.
What is it that? And well we’re an incision in the sole that will accommodate the sewing to bind the sole to the stem or the Welt according to the type of mounting.
Note: the wire used for the realization of this seam has importance in the quality of the Assembly: a thread high resistance and poisse will ensure solid mounting and sealing by plugging the holes of the seam.
Throat sewing has been created in which is then closed to protect the wire of a premature wear.
Once the sole sewn a good manufacturer (Yes we also do it, but I think that you guessed) will offer a pair of shoes, a new exposure time so, once again, leave the constraints imposed on the materials diffuse and avoid deformation.
Sole and heel are then sanded to get a uniform rendering but also better finishing record.
Yes the finishes, our pair of shoes is almost finished!
Installation, if necessary of carnations, final lacing, burning of wires sticking out, etc. We enter here in the small details that are nevertheless important for a pair of quality shoes!
The devil is in the details as they say!
A good manufacturer will feed and cirera shoes before you deliver them to enhance the leather used.
Some grow finishes up to tint the sole, heel and the eventual Welt for a harmony of color (you haven’t noticed these details on our models?) who, she too, will make your shoes even more beautiful!
Here, now, you know all the steps needed to make a pair of quality shoes but you have also some benchmarks to recognize a pair of quality or a scam!
According to the models and method of manufacturing there are not less than 120 steps to make a pair of shoes!
With a manufacturing process which is so dependent on humans you can imagine that the skills and know-how play an importance in the manufacture of your pair of shoes.
Make a pair of shoes: illustration in video:
Finally, I invite you to watch this video of Alexander Nurulaeff of the workshop of patina Dandy Shoes Care:
photo: vittoria vintage leather cycling shoes MG 9006
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